When formulating skincare, the goal is always to create something effective, stable, and nourishing. Recently, I rediscovered a face / body cream recipe I developed in May 2021, and to my delight, it’s still perfectly stable—no separation, no microbial growth (that I can see or smell), just a beautifully balanced formula. Today, I’m sharing this recipe with you, along with a deep dive into the ingredients and their roles.

This cream is designed to moisturize, soothe, and protect the skin, making it ideal for all skin types, including sensitive skin. It is also deliberately minimalist, meaning, I have only included that which is necessary for skin benefits and aesthetics. However, it is not optimised i.e I am sure I could have used less BTMS 25 (though it is in acceptable use rates). But it is perfect for the home crafter who wants a stable, effective and soothing skin cream. Let’s explore the ingredients and their functions, as well as natural alternatives for those who prefer a more plant-based approach.

Ingredient Breakdown

Oat Oil

Oat oil is a powerhouse ingredient derived from colloidal oats. It’s rich in antioxidants, fatty acids, and anti-inflammatory compounds, making it excellent for soothing irritated or sensitive skin. It also strengthens the skin barrier, helping to lock in moisture and protect against environmental stressors. Oat oil is particularly beneficial for dry, eczema-prone, or reactive skin types.

BTMS 25

BTMS 25 (Behentrimonium Methosulfate) is a conditioning emulsifier derived from rapeseed oil. It’s responsible for creating the cream’s luxurious, velvety texture by binding water and oil phases together. Beyond its emulsifying properties, BTMS 25 also acts as a cationic conditioner, leaving the skin feeling soft and smooth.

Glycerin

Glycerin is a humectant that attracts water from the environment into the skin, providing deep hydration. It’s lightweight, non-greasy, and suitable for all skin types. Glycerin also helps to improve the skin’s elasticity and maintain its natural moisture balance, making it a staple in moisturizing formulations.

Propanediol

Propanediol is a multifunctional ingredient derived from corn sugar. It acts as a solvent, humectant, and penetration enhancer, helping other active ingredients absorb more effectively into the skin. It’s lightweight, non-irritating, and provides a slight cooling sensation, making it ideal for soothing formulations.

Propanediol Dicaprylate

This ingredient is an emollient ester that gives the cream its silky, spreadable texture. It helps to soften and smooth the skin while providing a lightweight, non-greasy feel. Propanediol dicaprylate is also non-comedogenic, making it suitable for acne-prone skin.

Natural Alternative: For a plant-based option, consider squalane oil (derived from olives or sugarcane) or hemp seed oil. Both are lightweight, non-greasy, and provide excellent emollient properties.

Evicide Levulinate S (Preservative Blend)

This broad-spectrum preservative is a blend of levulinic acid and sodium levulinate, derived from biomass. It effectively protects against bacteria, yeast, and mold, ensuring the cream remains safe and stable over time. It’s gentle on the skin and compatible with natural formulations.

Natural Alternative: While true broad-spectrum natural preservatives are relatively hard to come by, geogard Ultra (a blend of gluconolactone and sodium benzoate) or Geogard 221 may be good alternatives and available in most regions. Note: these may require additional testing to ensure stability.

Adaptations

I have mentioned alternatives to some of the oils and preservative blend. You will note there is no fragrance to this cream. Please feel free to add up to 1% skin safe essential oil blend of your choice. To do this simply reduce the water content to substitute any changes. For example, if you use 1% essential oil, reduce water by 1%. Soothing essential oils include chamomile, rose, patchouli, bergamot (FCF), and of course lavender!

BOTANICAL FORMULATION (BTMS) Oat Moisture Cream
PHASE	INGREDIENT	INCI	Weight 300 g	TOTAL %
A	Deionised Water	Aqua	201.00	67.00
A	Zemea Propanediol	Propanediol	18.00	6.00
A	Glycerin 99%	Glycerin	18.00	6.00
B	BTMS 25	Behentrimonium Chloride, Cetearyl Alcohol	30.00	10.00
B	NatureDerm IL	Isoamyl Laurate, Isoamyl Cocoate	6.00	2.00
B	Dub Zenoate	Propanediol Dicaprylate	9.00	3.00
B	Oat Lipid Oil	Avena sativa Kernel Oil	15.00	5.00
C	Evicide Levulinate S	Aqua, Sodium Levulinate, Potassium Sorbate	3.00	1.00
D	Lactic Acid 80%	Lactic Acid, Aqua pH: 4.5-5.5	QS	QS
Method:
1. Weigh and heat phase A to 80 c (on a double boiler or hot plate) 2. Add phase B to phase A while stirring until temperature is 80c 3. Remove from heat and homogenise for 2-3 minutes 4. Stir until 40 c and add phase C 5. Adjust pH to 4.5-5.5 with D

Final Thoughts

This face cream is a perfect example of how science and nature can work together to create something truly special. Whether you stick to the original formula or experiment with natural alternatives, this formula is a great starting point for crafting a moisturizer that’s both effective and luxurious.

For more free DIY Oat Tutorials follow these links:

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