How to: Triple Oat Combi Soap Tutorial

This is a natural soap formula that uses the cold process method however I have replaced some of the water with cocamidopropyl betaine in the attempt to make this soap a little milder than cold processed soap normally is. I used avena sativa (oat) in three formats; whole ground oats, oat lipid/oil and aqueous oat extract.

The soap base itself is made with a combination of coconut and apricot kernel oil, shea butter and, as mentioned, oat oil. Apricot kernel oil and shea butter are typically used for sensitive skin and coconut oil is added for it’s superior cleansing, when turned into sodium cocoate.

To scent, I used a combination of patchouli and vetiver, both of which are indicated in use for sensitive skin. Vetiver is known for it’s cooling and moisturising effects on the skin. It is helpful for most inflammatory skin conditions including acne, psoriasis, urticaria and dermatitis. According to some literature, Patchouli has one of the strongest anti-fungal actions among essential oils, yet it is very gentle on the skin (Yang et al, 1996 in Martin, 2007) One study on it’s antifungal and antibacterial properties stated that ‘only patchouli met the criteria of being an effective antifungal agent without affecting the commensal bacteria’ (Chaumont et al 1989 in Martin, 2007) This combination of essential oils has the benefit of giving the soap a spa-type scent.

This soap was made about 6 months ago. Its scent has held very well. It has a pH of around 9.5.

I did a water discount to allow for the CAPB but you may want to reduce another 10-20% if you are used to using less water. I have made a 10% superfat and because of this level there is a risk of some of the free oils becoming rancid over time. As a precaution, I have used 0.1% rosemary oil extract to delay oxidation.

If you are not familiar with the cold process soap making method, please follow this post for how to make soap and safety advice. Then follow the method below.

BOTANICAL FORMULATIONS TRIPLE OAT CONDITIONING SOAP
PHASE	INGREDIENT	INCI	Total Weight 344.36 G	TOTAL %	Oils % TOTAL
Oils	Shea Butter	Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter	60.00	17.40	30.00
Oils	Coconut Oil	Cocos nucifera Oil	40.00	11.60	20.00
Oils	Apricot Kernel Oil	Prunus armeniaca (Apricot) Kernel Oil	90.00	26.10	45.00
Oils	Oat Oil	Avena sativa (Oat) Oil	10.00	2.90	5.00
		TOTAL	200.00		100%
Water	Water 20% Water Discount	Aqua	52.84	15.30
Water	NaOH needed 10% lye Discount	Sodium Hydroxide	25.52	7.40
Additives	Cocamidopropyl Betain	Cocamidopropyl Betain	20.00	5.80
Additives	Cationic Guar	Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride	3.00	0.90
Additives	Oat Milk	Aqua, Avena sativa Extract	10.00	2.90
Additives	Ground Oats	Avena sativa Powder	26.00	7.60
Additives	Rosemary Antioxidant	Rosmarinus officinalis, Helianthus annuus Seed Oil	0.50	0.10
Fragrance	Vetivert Essential Oil	Vetiveria zizanioides (Vetiver) Root Oil	3.50	1.00
Fragrance	Patchouli Essential Oil	Pogostemon cablin Oil	3.00	0.90

Method

1. Weigh all your ingredients. Melt the Shea butter and coconut oil and add to the liquid oils (apricot and oat oil)

2. Weigh the lye (sodium hydroxide) and the water. Gently pour the lye onto the water and stir until dissolved

3. Allow both the oils and the lye to reach room temperature (21 c), I normally feel the outside of the containers to determine how warm they are, cold or tepid in temperature is what i am looking for.

4. Pour the lye solution in the oils and stir, then stick blend until you have an emulsion (soap batter).

5. Weigh the cocamidopropyl betaine and add to the soap batter and stick blend. The mixture may curdle. If this happens, leave it alone for 10 minutes and stir again, it will form an emulsion after time, as the pH re-calibrates.

6. Add the rest of the additives and gently stir in.

7. If the batter is liquid enough you may want to do another burst of the stick blender.

8. Pour into molds.

9. Leave for 24-48 hours to harden, then release from mold and leave for 4-6 weeks before use.