Frankincense in Cosmetic Formulation

Introduction

Frankincense, derived from the resin of the Boswellia tree, has been revered for millennia for its aromatic, medicinal, and spiritual properties. Historically, it was used in ancient Egyptian skincare rituals, traditional Ayurvedic medicine, and Chinese healing practices. In recent years, frankincense extract has transitioned from traditional remedies to modern cosmetics, gaining prominence for its purported anti-aging, anti-inflammatory, and skin-rejuvenating properties. This review explores the multifaceted role of frankincense extract in cosmetics, examining its chemical composition, mechanisms of action, benefits, applications, safety, and future trends. By synthesizing scientific research and industry insights, this review aims to provide a comprehensive understanding of why frankincense extract is a valuable ingredient in contemporary skincare formulations. 

Chemical Composition and Extraction Methods

Frankincense extract is a complex mixture of bioactive compounds, each contributing to its therapeutic and cosmetic properties. The primary constituents include:

  1. Boswellic Acids:

    • These triterpenoids are the most studied components of frankincense, known for their anti-inflammatory and anti-cancer properties. (Trivedi VL et al, 2023)

    • Key boswellic acids include β-boswellic acid, acetyl-β-boswellic acid, and 11-keto-β-boswellic acid (ibid).

  2. Essential Oils:

    • Frankincense essential oil contains monoterpenes (e.g., α-pinene, limonene) and sesquiterpenes, which contribute to its antimicrobial and antioxidant effects. (Al-Kharousi ZS et al; 2023)

  3. Polysaccharides:

    • Frankincense resin was found to contain galactose, arabinose, and glucuronic acid, along with small amounts of rhamnose and glucose. (Almeida-da-Silva CLC, 2022)

Extraction Methods:

The choice of extraction method depends on the specific molecule fraction being targeted. In casual or informal settings, the simplest and most effective approaches are typically oil or water extraction. However, in a more controlled or formal environment, the following methods may be used.

Steam Distillation (SD):

This method is used to produce frankincense essential oil, which contains volatile compounds like monoterpenes and sesquiterpenes, monoterpenoids, sesquiterpenoids and ketones (Jenn Coggan, 2013)

However, boswellic acids are non-volatile and are not retained in steam-distilled extracts. (Tisserand)

CO2 Extraction:

Supercritical CO2 extraction can yield trace amounts of boswellic acids along with essential oils. Note, this applies to Boswellia Serrata as opposed to Cartarii (Tisserand). This extract contains similar volatile compounds as steam distillation, albeit at higher concentrations, like SD extraction, doesnt contain boswellic acids.

Solvent Extraction:

Ethanol or methanol extraction is the most effective method for isolating boswellic acids. It involves extracting the boswellic acid, removing the solvent and drying to make a soluble powder (Al-Harrasi A et al 2018).

Hydro-distillation:

In contrast to steam distillation where steam is passed through the plant material, hydro-distillation requires immersing the plant material in boiling water and allowing the volatile compounds to vaporize and then condense back into a liquid. It is considered a gentler form of extraction of the essential oils. Although hydrodistilled essential oil of frankincense doesn’t contain boswellic acid, it does contain volatile compounds similar to steam distilled extracts (essential oils). 

Mechanisms of Action

Frankincense extract exerts its effects on the skin through multiple biochemical pathways:

Anti-Inflammatory Properties:

Boswellic acids inhibit 5-lipoxygenase (5-LOX) and cyclooxygenase (COX) enzymes, reducing the production of pro-inflammatory mediators like leukotrienes and prostaglandins. This makes frankincense extract effective in soothing conditions like eczema, psoriasis, and acne (Nischang Vivie et al, 2023)

Antioxidant Activity:

The terpenes and phenolic compounds in frankincense neutralize free radicals, preventing oxidative stress and collagen degradation. This helps combat signs of aging, such as fine lines and wrinkles (Venkatesan, K et al, 2025).

Antimicrobial Effects:

Frankincense essential oil exhibits broad-spectrum antimicrobial activity against bacteria (e.g., Staphylococcus aureus) and fungi (e.g., Candida albicans), making it useful in acne treatments and preservative systems (Di Stefano V et al 2020).

Cell Regeneration and Wound Healing:

Frankincense stimulates fibroblast activity, promoting collagen synthesis and tissue repair. It also enhances keratinocyte differentiation, improving skin barrier function. These mechanisms underscore frankincense extract’s versatility as a cosmetic ingredient (Venkatesan, K et al, 2025).

Benefits in Skincare

Frankincense extract offers a wide range of benefits, supported by both traditional use and modern science:

Anti-Ageing:

Reduces the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines by boosting collagen production and inhibiting matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) (Kotb EA et al, 2023) thus improving skin elasticity and firmness.

Skin Brightening:

Inhibits tyrosinase activity, reducing melanin production and promoting an even skin tone ( Xiufang Yan MS et al 2023) therefore potentially effective at treating hyperpigmentation and dark spots.

Soothing and Calming:

Alleviates redness, irritation, and inflammation, making it ideal for acne-prone or skin. Clinical studies have shown significant improvements in conditions like rosacea and atopic dermatitis (Tsai YC et al, 2022)

Hydration and Barrier Repair:

Polysaccharides in frankincense enhance moisture retention and strengthen the skin’s natural barrier (Almeida-da-Silva CLC, 2022).

Acne Management:

Its antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory properties help reduce acne lesions and prevent future breakouts (Di Stefano V et al, 2020)

Applications in Cosmetic Formulations

Frankincense extract is incorporated into various skincare products, each tailored to leverage its unique properties:

  1. Serums and Concentrates:

    • High concentrations of boswellic acids target signs of ageing and inflammation (Pedretti A et al 2009).

    • Example: A 0.5% frankincense serum combined with hyaluronic acid for hydration and anti-aging (Pedretti A et al 2009).

  2. Moisturizers and Creams:

    • Polysaccharides and essential oils provide hydration and barrier repair.

    • Example: A night cream with frankincense, shea butter, and ceramides for intensive repair.

  3. Masks and Peels:

    • Used in clay or gel masks to detoxify and brighten the skin.

    • Example: A charcoal mask with frankincense extract for deep cleansing and pore refinement.

  4. Spot Treatments:

    • Targeted formulations for acne or hyperpigmentation.

    • Example: A spot gel with frankincense, salicylic acid, and niacinamide.

Challenges in Formulation:

  • Stability: Boswellic acids are sensitive to pH and temperature.

  • Compatibility: Frankincense essential oil may interact with other volatile compounds.

  • Odor: The strong aroma may require masking agents in some formulations. 

Safety and Regulatory Considerations

Frankincense extract is generally considered safe for topical use, with few reported side effects. However, some considerations include:

  • Potential Allergens: Essential oils may cause sensitization in individuals with sensitive skin.

  • Purity: Contaminants from improper extraction or sourcing can pose risks.

  • Regulatory Status:

    • EU: Complies with the Cosmetic Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009.

    • US: Generally Recognized As Safe (GRAS) for topical use.

    • Asia: Approved under the ASEAN Cosmetic Directive.

Patch testing is recommended for new formulations to ensure safety. 

Future Trends and Innovations

The future of frankincense extract in cosmetics is promising, with several emerging trends:

  1. Sustainable Sourcing: Ethical harvesting and cultivation of Boswellia trees to ensure long-term availability (Abdirisak Abdulkadir Ibrahim et al 2023)

  2. Nanotechnology: Encapsulation of boswellic acids in liposomes or nanoparticles for enhanced delivery and stability (Mehta et al, 2014, Hwa Seung Han et al, 2022)

  3. Synergistic Formulations: Combining frankincense with other bioactive ingredients (e.g., retinol, vitamin C) for amplified effects.

  4. Clinical Validation: Increased investment in clinical trials to substantiate claims and expand applications.

     

Conclusion

Frankincense extract is a versatile and effective ingredient in modern cosmetics, offering a unique combination of anti-aging, anti-inflammatory, and skin-rejuvenating properties. Its rich chemical composition, supported by centuries of traditional use and modern scientific research, makes it a valuable addition to skincare formulations. As the cosmetics industry continues to innovate, frankincense extract is poised to play an even greater role in addressing diverse skin concerns and meeting consumer demand for natural, evidence-based ingredients.

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Rebecca Wright