Creating Self Preserving Products with Botanical Waters
As most will know I am particularly interested in cosmetic preservation. About 6 years ago I wrote a post on how to preserve natural products with a focus on hurdle technology. I have used this approach to formulating for probably as long as I have been formulating, even with water based products, and even if I wasn’t quite aware of it.
Hurdle technology is not a new thing, it was identified in the food industry in the 1970’s though has been practised probably for probably millennia. In terms of cosmetic formulation, it refers to using various strategies to limit the growth of microbes in a cosmetic product. In theory and practice, it is about creating many hurdles or an environmental situation that makes it very difficult for microbes to grow. This includes the following:
Adjusting pH of a product so that the environment inhibits growth
Adjusting levels of moisture and/or reducing water activity (the latter can include ingredients such as sugar, salt and polyols)
Working in sanitary conditions
Using suitable packaging
Using a variety of ingredients not classified as preservatives such as fragrance materials and humectants
Using chelating agents to draw out the minerals/metals needed for cell growth of the organism
If you look at food preservation practices you will see that humans have used this approach in one way or another for thousands of years i.e. using sugar or salt, desiccating or drying, using fermentation to preserve and add nutritional value to products, and using heat in canning are just some examples.
One product that when included adds antimicrobial support is Pine Extvolat. It is a product indicated particularly for acne prone skin, but also has the added benefit of protecting the product from contamination. It is a botanical water that contains ingredients (though the manufacturer says they are not entirely sure of the mechanism of action) that limit bacteria and yeast from growing when added at a certain level. Their studies show it is an effective preservative all by itself. Lets take a closer look.
Pine Extvolat
Pine Extvolat (INCI Pinus syvestris Trunk Extract) is an ECOCERT and COSMOS approved organic pine water designed to take up the water phase of a cosmetic product. The company claim to not use any additional water in the extraction process, instead they,’use a unique method of exposing the raw material to low temperature air flows no greater than 30-35c.’ They also do not use other solvents or alcohol in their extraction process. They use only a small amount of energy; it is therefore relatively sustainable. The name Extvolat combines the two words ‘extract’ and ‘volatile materials’. They state it contains tannins, essential oils, resins and vitamins with trace elements of, ‘2,3-dihydro-1,8-cineole, 1,4 cineole, m-cymene, carene, fenchol, pino sarveol, campphenhydrate, isoborneol, endoborenol, L-terpene-4-ol, α- terpineol, 4- carvomenthol.’
Pine Extvolate can be used up to 100% but as an antimicrobial it will make water based products self preserving if used at between 30% and 50% and will exclude the need for additional traditional and non traditional preservatives. Using 10%-30% it is possible to reduce the level of preservatives in a product. According to the literature it can work on products with high water content such as toners as well as high to lower water level products such as milks, lotions and creams. It can also be used with surfactant products. The level needed for preservation needed in each formulation may vary. It has a pH of between 4.5 and 5 however my sample had a pH of 4.5.
Pine Extvolat is suitable for the following type of formulations:
Skin whitening/brightening
Anti-ageing
Skin regenerating
Hair stimulating/hair growth
Antiseptic
Anti acne (regulates sebum production - reduction of 30%)
This is an exciting product with lots of potential for self preserving products. In the next post I will show you how to make an anti acne/oily skin tonic water.