Cupuacu Butter

INCI: Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter

Appearance: Creamy firm butter

Melt Point 38.1 c

Iodine Value: 74.2

SHELF LIFE: up to 18-24 months

CAS NO: 394236-97-6

SAP: 210 - 235

SAP Multiplier for NaOH: 0.159

SAP Multiplier for KOH: 0.223

Introduction

Cupuacu butter comes from the seeds of the Theobroma grandiflorum tree, This small to medium rainforest tree grows up to 20 meters in height. The melon-like fruit contains approximately 30% creamy pungent pulp that is traditionally used to make icecream, jams, jucices and liqueurs (Esprendor, et al, 2019). The Seeds can be processed to extract a chocolate-like substance called ‘cupulate.” (Ana L.F. Pereira et al, 2018)

Physical and Chemical Characteristics

Cupuacu fruit is comprised of 43% shell, 38% pulp, 17% seeds and 2% placenta. Protein and lipid content of the pulp is low but it is high in soluble fibre, starch and pectin. The pulp contains high levels of ascorbic acid, 102mg/100g. In addition, the pulp contains a high concentration of phenolic compounds. The fruit is brown, round to oval, large, 20-25 cm long, 6-10 cm wide, and the pulp contains nutrients, vitamins and antioxidants. (Esprendor, et al., 2019). The cupuassu seed is very rich in fats (±60% dry weight), which are 91% digestible by humans. The fatty acid profile includes palmitic (11.22%–11.70%), stearic (37.86%–38.15%), oleic (37.83%–39–79%), araquidic (7.44%–7.97%), and linoleic acids (2.37%–247%) (Cohen and Jackix, 2005)

Effects on the Skin

Cupuacu butter has been described as a plant based alternative to lanolin due to its ability to retain water and act as an emulsifier in creams and lotions. Simple water absorption studies have found it is able to retain up to 440% moisture:

Water was added to each of the following: cupuacu, shea butter and lanolin, with stirring, until separation was observed. Cupuacu could support 440% of its weight in water, which means that 1 kg of cupuacu butter could absorb 4.4 kg of water under stirring before any division of phases was noted. Cupuacu butter offers the capacity to attract 440% more water allowing it to function much more effectively as a skin hydrator and plumper(Esprendor, et al, 2019).

The high levels of moisture holding capacity make the oil an outstanding moisturiser; promoting elasticity and preventing transepidermal water loss ((Esprendor, et al, 2019). 

Cupuacu has been found to have two sulfated flavonoid glycosides including the 9 known flavonoid antioxidants. It has been suggested that these polyphenols contribuute to the butters ability to protect the skin from harmful UVA and UVB rays as well as free radical damage. (Yang, Hui, 2003) It is also high in phytosterols, especially beta-sitosterol.

Cupuacu butter is a soft solid with a low melting point (38.1) and a scent not dissimilar to that of cocoa butter.

Use in Cosmetics

As mentioned Cupuacu butter is obtained from the seeds of the fruit, mainly as a by product from other industries. It is used in a variety of cosmetics products, ranging from emulsions to shampoos. The oil contains essential nutrients, vitamins and antioxidants that increase the skins levels of hydration and elasticity. It is an anti-ageing oil in that helps protect the skin against UV-A and UV-B rays (Pereira et al 2015).

It is considered as ‘super moisturiser because of its hydrophilic properties. As it holds moisture to the skin it improves its texture, making it more supple and elastic. The high levels of phenolic compounds make it a superior antioxidant which contributes to its anti-inflammatory and protectant qualities. (Fleck, 2012). High levels of oleic acid had a fluidising effect on the membranes of dermal cells which enhanced penetration of actives into the skin. (ibid)

Due to it’s water loving characteristics it can be used to improve the stability of emulsions. Used at 3-5% it can help to increase the aesthetics of emulsions by improving spreadability as well as viscosity. Adding just 3-5% has also been shown to work synergistically with synthetic antioxidants thus reducing the amount needed in a formula. (R. V. F. Esprendor, 2019)

Observations

I have used cupuacu in skin balms and creams for dry and dehydrated skin as well as deep conditioning hair masks. Used at a high enough levels it will impart a chocolate-like scent and creamy colour. Use it in any product where you need to attract moisture to the skin and hair.

References:

Ana L.F. Pereira, Virgínia K.G. Abreu, Sueli Rodrigues, Cupuassu—Theobroma grandiflorum, Editor(s): Sueli Rodrigues, Ebenezer de Oliveira Silva, Edy Sousa de Brito, Exotic Fruits, Academic Press, 2018, Pages 159-162

§  Fleck, C. A. (2012). Advanced Skin Care – A Novel Ingredient.

Yang, Hui & Protiva, Petr & Cui, Baoliang & Ma, Cuiying & Baggett, Scott & Hequet, Vanessa & Mori, Scott & Weinstein, I & Kennelly, Edward. (2003). New Bioactive Polyphenols from Theobroma grandiflorum ("Cupuaç u"). Journal of natural products. 66. 1501-4. 10.1021/np034002j.

Batiston, Weliton & Maruyama, Swami & Gomes, Sandra & Visentainer, Jesui & Souza, Nilson & Matsushita, Makoto. (2013). Total phenolic content and antioxidant capacity of methanolic extracts of ten fruits. Acta Scientiarum Technology. 35. 581-585. 10.4025/actascitechnol.v35i3.18533.

Esprendor, R. V., Raiser, A. L., Torres, M. P., Ribeiro, E. B., Nogueira, R. M., Andrighetti, C. R., & Valladão., D. M. (2019). Development and stability study of products containing cupuaçu butter

https://www.ulprospector.com/documents/1197460.pdf?bs=10878&b=332100&st=20&r=na&ind=personalcare