Alkanet Root (Alkanna tinctoria): Benefits, Safety, and Responsible Use
Alkanet root (Alkanna tinctoria), a perennial herb from the Boraginaceae family, is native to the Mediterranean but grows across Europe, Asia, and Africa. Traditionally, its vibrant red pigment—alkannin—has been used as a natural dye in textiles, cosmetics, and even food. Beyond its coloring properties, research suggests it may offer antioxidant and antimicrobial benefits (Ali-Shtayeh et al., Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 2002).
Chemical Composition & Benefits
Studies have identified several key compounds in alkanet root, including:
Alkannin & shikonin (primary pigments with reported wound-healing and anti-inflammatory properties)
Phytosterols (beta-sitosterol, stigmasterol)
Fatty acids (palmitic, stearic, oleic acids)
These components contribute to its potential therapeutic effects, though most research remains preliminary.
Safety Considerations: The Dose Makes the Poison
Like many botanicals, alkanet root contains pyrrolizidine alkaloids (PAs), compounds known for hepatotoxicity (liver damage) in high doses or prolonged exposure. Key findings:
A 2003 study found ethanol extracts toxic to human lymphocytes in vitro at high concentrations (≥100 μg/mL), linked to PAs (Ali-Shtayeh et al.).
Topical PA exposure in rats caused liver damage (Fu et al., Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 2012), and a 2014 study detected PAs in human bloodstreams after cosmetic use (Lachenmeier et al., Journal of Toxicology).
However, toxicity depends on dose, preparation, and application:
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel—a gold standard for safety assessment—approves alkanet root in cosmetics at ≤2% concentration, deeming this level safe for topical use.
PA content varies by plant origin and processing. Some manufacturers use PA-free extracts or purification methods to mitigate risks.
Responsible Use in Cosmetics
While alkanet root’s staining properties require careful formulation, its regulated use in cosmetics aligns with safety standards. Recommendations:
Follow CIR guidelines: Use at or below 2% in products.
Patch-test: Sensitive individuals should check for skin reactions.
Avoid oral use: PAs pose higher risks when ingested.
Conclusion
Alkanet root offers unique benefits as a natural dye and potential bioactive ingredient. While PAs warrant caution, the principle of “the dose makes the poison” applies—its approved use rates in cosmetics are not considered toxic. Always source from reputable suppliers and adhere to regulatory limits for safe, effective formulations.
Reference:
Ali-Shtayeh, M. S., Jamous, R. M., Abu-Zaitoun, S. Y., Akkawi, R. J., & Kalbouneh, S. R. (2002). Antioxidant activity of methanolic extract of Alkanna tinctoria roots. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 82(2-3), 145-151. https://doi.org/10.1016/s0378-8741(02)00174-3
Ali-Shtayeh, M. S., Abu Ghdeib, S. I., & Safi, J. M. (2003). Antimicrobial activity of Alkanna tinctoria (L.) Tausch (Boraginaceae) extracts against some pathogenic microorganisms. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 88(2-3), 221-226.
Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. (2007). Final report on the safety assessment of Alkanna tinctoria root extract, Alkanna tinctoria seed oil, and alkannin. International Journal of Toxicology, 26(Suppl 2), 47-56. doi: 10.1080/10915810701351186.
Fu, P. P., Yang, Y. C., Xia, Q., Chou, M. W., & Cui, Y. Y. (2012). Urgent need to develop effective analytical and detoxification methods for poisonous plant-derived herbal medicines. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 140(1), 13-21. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jep.2012.01.009
Lachenmeier, D. W., Musshoff, F., Madea, B., & Steffen, C. (2014). Pyrrolizidine alkaloids in a cosmetic patch and in hair samples after long-term use of the patch. Journal of Toxicology, 2014, 973592. https://doi.org/10.1155/2014/973592
Saroglou, V., Marin, P. D., & Rancic, A. (2006). Composition of the essential oil of Alkanna tinctoria (L.) Tausch et its biological significance. Journal of Essential Oil Research, 18(3), 277-280. https://doi.org/10.1080/10412905.2006.9699154
How to Make Alkanet Root Infusion (Oil)
Method:
Grind alkanet
Add to jar
Add olive oil
Leave to steep in the oil for a few weeks
