For a few months I have been wondering if there is an oil that has a similar viscosity and skin feel as castor oil. Castor oil is very unique, it is thick yet doesn’t solidify at low temperatures. This characteristic is due to its high levels of ricinoleic acid (90%), an unusual and unique fatty acid. Ricinoleic acid is an omega 9 fatty acid and a hydroxy fatty acid(HFA). Hydroxy fatty acids are a special kind of fatty acid that have a hydroxyl group (oxygen and hydrogen) attached to a carbon chain. Because of their special chemical attributes HFAs are widely used in a variety of products including waxes, resins, nylons, plastics, cosmetics and coatings. It also means that castor oil is more polar than other fats. This polarity allows it to be particularly soluble in alcohol.

I have used castor oil in rich body oils, as it is highly moisturizing and has the added benefit of adding viscosity without compromising other characteristics. You will find it in traditional zinc and castor oil balms or nappy creams for its occlusive and emollient properties. Castor oil is also great in soap making, as a foam stabiliser. It seems like a boring oil, but its versatility makes it my most favorite.

After some research, I came to the conclusion that there is no such thing as an oil with similar properties as castor oil. Until I stumbled upon Bladderpod Oil.

Bladderpod Oil

Bladderpod Oil goes by the Latin name Lesquerella fendleri.

Lesquerella fenleri is a member of the brassicaceae (mustard) family. There are over 70 species of Lesquerella known, all native to North America. It is a low-growing plant with bright yellow flowers.

The tiny seeds yield up to 28% oil and 22% protein and the amino acid lysine. 55% of the oil contains lesquerolic acid. Lesquerolic acid is similar to ricenoleic acid; a hydroxyl acid. (Osman & Ahmad, 1981).

The seed meal contains antioxidants derived from glucosinolates and the oil contains esterified oils, estolides. The former is water soluble but can be used as additives to increase oxidative stability. The latter can be used as an additive to increase pour point of vegetable oils (Salywon, A; et al, 2005)

The oil also contains high levels of essential fatty acids not normally found in combination with hydroxy acids. Researchers believe gums from the seed coat and meal could be used as thickening or gelling agents in food and pharmaceutical products. (Grace Q. Chen , Louisa Vang, and Jiann-Tsyh Lin, 2009).

The crude oil is not a straight up alternative to castor oil in its unrefined form; castor oil has around 90% HFA and Bladderpod has only around 50-55%, however experts believe that with processing, or ‘splitting’ of the different fatty acids within the oil, it is possible to increase the levels of HFAs.

Below is the fatty acid profile of Bladderpod.

I have not been able to find a great deal of information on this oil for use in the cosmetic industry, and I have not been able to find a seller despite various agricultural papers dedicated to its potential as an alternative to castor oil. I did find a You Tube video of a man pressing some of the oil but that is about it (see below). Any help on getting more information about this oil for cosmetic or even culinary use would be very much appreciated :-)

References

ANDREW M. SALYWON, 2,5 DAVID A. DIERIG, 2 JON P. REBMAN, 3 AND DIANA JASSO DE RODRI ´GUEZ4 (2005) EVALUATION OF NEW LESQUERELLA AND PHYSARIA (BRASSICACEAE) OIL SEED GERM PLASM; American Journal of Botany 92(1): 53–62. 2005.

Bladderpod Oil: An alternative to Castor Oil?

Bladderpod Oil

Bladderpod Oil Fatty Acid Profile